Like a toque-wearing Moses, Andre Rochat parted the waves of Las Vegas budget buffets in 1980, bringing the cuisine of his native France to a culinary desert. Rochat has since included Andre's at the Monte Carlo and Alizé at the Palms. However his provincially decorated flagship in a 1930s-era downtown house-with 4 cozy dining rooms, each representing another French city and ornamented with lots of wood, tapestries, and soft lighting-is still going strong, owing in part to the menu that has both classic French dishes such as coquilles Saint Jacques (scallops in a wine-enriched cream sauce) and many with current twists, like grilled quail with figs and prosciutto. Entrée prices begin in the mid-30s.